GORE-TEX: Pros, Cons, and Forever Chemicals 🔬 | W25

Hi there, In this weeks' newsletter, we'll try to get an answer to the following: Is GORE-TEX worth the premium?   A few weeks back we wrote about the impending banishment of PFA's or so-called forever chemicals. We come across these chemicals everywhere - almost every day I would guess. They're in countless consumer products, providing water, heat, oil, stain, and grease resistance. These chemicals are hugely effective, albeit with the environmental and health concerns. And, they're on the way to being banned in 2025. GORE-TEX currently uses these so-called PFA's. To be fair, the company has responded to the ban:   "The company intends to replace ePTFE membrane with expanded polyethylene membrane by 2025 in consumer fabrics. The new material, while intended to perform comparably to the existing ePTFE material, will apparently cost more, and require more frequent washing."   So, should we use GORE-TEX infused outdoor gear? Let's dig a little deeper and take a look at GORE-TEX, the pros and cons.

About GORE-TEX How Does The GORE-TEX Material Work? GORE-TEX is a fabric membrane designed to withstand harsh weather conditions while allowing moisture to escape. It's made from expanded polytetrafluoroethylene (ePTFE), a material known for its durability and weather-resistant properties.   The Science? A unique membrane technology that consists of billions of microscopic pores makes GORE-TEX work. These pores are small enough to prevent liquid water from passing through, but large enough to allow water vapor to escape (perspiration). While external moisture like rain or snow is kept out, internal moisture generated by the body during activities is allowed to evaporate, keeping you dry and comfortable.

Pros GORE-TEX is waterproof and it is breathable GORE-TEX is designed to be waterproof, ensuring that water cannot penetrate the fabric membrane even in the most extreme conditions.   This water-resistant property is what distinguishes GORE-TEX from other materials.   Products that are produced using GORE-TEX Hiking jackets, ski and snowboard jackets, pants, hiking clothes, gloves, hats, footwear (such as outdoor shoes, hiking boots, and socks) and even accessories like backpacks and tents use GORE-TEX.   It's common for everything outdoors, like hiking, mountaineering, biking, skiing, snowboarding, and more.   Are GORE-TEX footwear and boots waterproof? The same waterproof membrane technology is used in GORE-TEX footwear, including outdoor footwear and hiking boots. This makes them ideal for outdoor pursuits like trekking, climbing, and skiing.   Will GORE-TEX wear out? The waterproofing and breathability of GORE-TEX diminish with time and use. The performance and lifespan of GORE-TEX products can be prolonged with proper care and maintenance, including regular cleaning and re-proofing.   Why is GORE-TEX more expensive than other products? The advanced technology and premium materials used in their construction contribute to the higher cost of GORE-TEX products. There's a lot of research and development going on behind the GORE-TEX gear's value and performance. PS - We're designing a jacket that will have the same waterproofing and breathability, with alternative designs. Follow this Group to stay in the conversation.

Cons It contains 'forever chemicals' Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances are called PFAS. PFAS are colloquially called "forever chemicals" because they are a mouthful. The nickname refers to the fact that these chemicals can survive essentially forever. They won't degrade in the environment for a thousand years or more, which is precisely why they're so effective.   Why Are Forever Chemicals Dangerous? "Studies have linked PFAS exposure to a host of serious health problems: a 2023 study published in eBioMedicine found associations between PFAS exposure and thyroid cancer, and several other studies have linked exposure to kidney cancer as well.   Two of the most notorious forever chemicals are PFOA and PFOS, which have historically been used in nonstick cookware, firefighting foam, and many waterproof textiles. Both have been deemed hazardous by the EPA and were phased out of manufacturing in the U.S. in the mid 2000s. But thousands of other PFAS are still in production, and we are only now starting to understand where they show up. Which, at the risk of being redundant, is everywhere. Dr. Stuart Harrad, professor of environmental chemistry at University of Birmingham in the U.K., studies PFAS exposure through skin. In a 2023 study (Environmental Research) he and his collaborators found that "PFAS can indeed transfer from environmental media (like indoor dust) into skin fluids (like sweat and oils) and become available for absorption through the skin into the bloodstream."   "I would be concerned about the potential dermal exposure if PFAS in clothing comes in direct contact with the skin," he told me. "However, as we don't know what PFAS are present in such clothing, we cannot say with any certainty what the health effects might be and whether these might occur at the dermal exposure levels that might arise from wearing such clothing." In other words, PFAS in your yoga pants or long johns—or any fabric that directly touches your skin—could absorb directly into your bloodstream. But Harrad sees less of an exposure risk with clothing that is not next-to-skin, like jackets. He says that because of the unknowns, as well as the environmental implications of creating waste, he is "loathe to advise people to throw away existing wearable items" but contends that PFAS use in "any new products should be prohibited."  - Outside Cost This is straightforward - you will pay a premium for outdoor and other products that have GORE-TEX. That's clear. This means that the brands that use it have to pay for its use. Hence adding a cost.    Care and maintenance If you want to just set and forget, then you definitely won't get the same value. GORE-TEX garments need to be cared for and maintained - often needing to restore the DWR - durable water repellent - over time.   Reduced breathability GORE-TEX breathability will reduce in periods of high humidity, or indeed during strenuous activity. Note the differing ratings in g/m2/24h. Conclusion So, hopefully this gives you a clearer picture of whether or not it's worth the premium, and if GORE-TEX is for you. Do the research. Alternatives are popping up all the time for less cost. I've personally used it quite a bit.   In summary, it helps for sure. But it's not perfect if used in those extreme cases, but nothing is.  Until next week, thanks for reading,

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